What CQ is trying to say is that there are a lot of factors that can influence how a bike "fits" and that you'll only truly know how it fits once you've ridden it, preferably out on the road or on a velodrome.
If you like how your road bike fits, take the dimensions of the contact points and try to replicate that on a track bike. Those being:
- Vertical and horizontal offsets between the center of the BB and the midpoint of the saddle rails (use the same saddle to start)
- Vertical and horizontal offsets between the center of the BB and the center of the handlebar where it is clamped at the stem (use the same shape/dimensions of handlebar to start with, same model is ideal)
That's just a starting point. Chances are pretty good you'll want to move stuff to improve how the bike feels or handles. Road and track riding are different enough that different equipment and riding positions are warranted, on some level.
Bike fit is really a lot of trial and error, so if you're looking for a magic bullet two sentence answer one doesn't really exist. Be prepared to spend some money trying out different fit kit parts (stems, seatposts, saddles, handlebars) and even different bikes. Trying in person is always better than looking at something online.
Joined: Feb 05, 2012 Posts: 4 Location: Littleton, Colorado Home Track:
Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 6:34 pm Post subject:
Yeah I understand it was a pretty vauge question but....
didn't know if like cyclocross (I ride a 56cm road bike but have a 54cm cross bike) getting a bit smaller frame helps throw the bike around better.I thought that I had heard the same with Track.
I have been professionally Fit on both my Road and Cyclocross bikes. I know I only have a few posts but it's not as if I just started riding/racing a bike. I raced Pro Downhill for six years and after racing a full season of cyclocross last year have been interested in racing track as well.
Last time I bought a frame off internet (actually, I checked the geometry and got a friend to pick it up for me) I thought I'd made sure that everything was OK, as close to my previous bike as I could get; the steering angle, ST angle, TT horizontal size, fork rake, the lot.
It was not until the first ride on the rollers that I picked out something different. I went back down to inspect; turned out the way they made this frame, the BB shell was about 1cm back from the "axis" of that seat tube line. Bugger me.
Eventually I got away with it using a 1cm shorter stem (same length with my road bike) and was still happy. But yeah, sometimes when you thought it's all sorted out, it's not. That's when going for a settup closest to what you have has its effect.
go to a custom builder? They are all over, you should be able to find one that can do anything you want, paint it the color you want, save money on all those parts because it will actually fit the first time, and give you a totally unique ride.
Hard to go wrong using your road bike as a starting point. And if you figure on a frame that lets you get your road-bike position with a 11cm stem with a moderate or zero deg rise/drop and maybe 20mm of spacers you'll have a fair bit of wiggle-room to change your position as your style evolves. If you plan on using for example a 6cm or 14cm right away, you won't have adjusting possibilities both ways.
Also remember you'll be in the drops essentially the whole time, while on a road bike a lot of time is spent on the hoods. This seems to effect how people position their bars.
You also might want to try bars a tad narrower. Since more track riding is "on the rivit" and there is no up-hill standing swaying the bike back and forth, you won't miss the width and may well come to greatly prefer narrow bars.
As a side note, I've built a few bikes for friends the last few weeks and have used these bars and they are great:
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